What does my game draw?
Most games have a number in their name (eg M8000, ZEON 8)
The number tells what the game must draw in pounds (lb. or lbs.) And not kilos. A pound is about 0.453 kg.
Always be aware that reference is made to the first layer of wire on the drum. The more layers of wire there is on the drum, the lower the game's traction capacity.

Engine types.
A game engine can be injured in two ways.
1. by overload
The game is exposed to higher loads for which it is intended. The engine will not rotate and therefore burns off. This can be prevented by installing an overload protection.
2. By requiring continuous use.
Even though the game is not charged more than intended, the heat will be built into the engine. If it gets too hot, the engine will be damaged. On some games there is a thermal protection that reduces the risk. Many games do not have this. The user should be aware of this. By putting your hand on the engine you can feel how warm it is. Is not it comfortable, neither did the engine seem comfortable.
One way to reduce the risk of overheating is to use the decoupling when the wire is to be pulled out, instead of playing it out. (Playing with the engine also charges the game's brake)

Two types of electric motors are used

Permanent Magnetic (PM) . These are characterized by the fact that there are only 2 terminals 1 and 2. When the engine receives + on 1. and ÷ on 2. drive the engine one way. When switching on the power, run the other way.
There are magnets inside the engine, hence the name.
These engines are primarily used for smaller games like ATV, UTILITY and hay games. They often have a smaller size than the SW engine.
A PM engine has a shorter run. That is, the game stops faster after the switch is released. A PM engine normally has a lower AMP consumption than an SW motor, but builds heat faster.

Series wound motor (SW) . These engines are characterized by having 3 terminals + frame. (F1, F2, A and ÷ set)
They work by, for example, F1 connecting +, A and F2, ÷ to battery. Drive the engine one way. When turning the direction of rotation, F2 +, A and F1 can be connected. Then drive the engine the other way.
This type of engine is used on the vast majority of major games. Generally, these more forces use more Amp than PM engine and have a longer operating cycle.

Relays / contactors.
In WARN's program, there are many different types of games, adapted to the different games.
Solonoid:
Some systems are based on 4 pcs. relays (soloids) connected to each other so that the engine can be controlled. (previous systems had 2 or 3 relays, today all solonoid bassed WARN relay boxes are 4 pcs.) These relays are available today on a selection of rescue games.
In case of defects in a relay box with soloids, there are often one or two injured. A relay can work even if it has been damaged. A damaged relay may tend to work when it is cold, but when it gets hot it does not work. A well-functioning relay measures 1 Ohm across the two major terminals. If resistance is higher, it should be replaced.
Contactor:
This is a closed relay. This type was previously used primarily in Industrial Asia, but is currently standard on most WARN games. These contactors are more durable and there is not the same exposed wire mesh as the solonoid system.

Control / Jack:
A lot of years ago, WARN used a three-pin control system (in, out and +) on all their games. This system is still used on the Industry Series, Utility Series and ATV Series. A 5-pin system is used in the Salvation Games. The difference between the two types is that the 5-pin system has an additional safety feature built-in. Each time a game is pressed, the ÷ connection is also established. This reduces the risk of short circuit and unintentional activation of the game. At the same time, minus connection is also used when connecting WARN's wireless remote control. Special warn game can have 6 legs in the plug. For example, the extra leg is used for feedback on engine temperature.
The plug in the salvage games was until some years ago. With 7 holes (1 in the middle and 6 around). Today, the actual socket is D-shaped, but the holes are in the same way. This makes it easier to plug in. When purchasing a new remote control cable, be aware that remote control cables with D-shaped connectors can be used on both the new and the old relay boxes. Remote control cables with round connectors can only be used on the old ones (around the connector in the relay box).

Weather and wind:
Our game is built to sit outside. However, the amount of salt used in the winter here in Denmark can help harm the game. It's a game like cars: They can stand out all year long, but keep them in the garage and stay clean, so they stay longer. We recommend that you purchase a cover for his game.

Wiren: The
wire is of course an important part of the game. A damaged wire can be dangerous. It is important to keep a high "wire discipline". The wire must always be driven correctly. That is, the windings must be close and the layers properly. A wire that is driven by crooked pull can clap on one side of the drum. The wire can be deformed and the game can be damaged. Draw on loose layers: the first layer of wire on the drum is loose and pulling on them becomes the wire mast and can be wedged into the underlying layers.
At regular intervals, it is a good idea to run its wire on the game under controlled load conditions (read this in the manual). This can fix a wire with belly and crack a smuggle. (this should always be done with a new game or wire). A wire with damage must always be replaced.